Introduction to Sampling
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You've
got your sample, and now you need to tame it and make it do your every
bidding. Highs and lows of sample looping, trimming and bandwidth squeezing...
Why edit? We'll be
covering creative edits later, but this month we're looking at using editing
to save memory.
Creative edits are
there to make more interesting sounds. Basic editing has its creative
side too, but mainly we're after one thing here - more memory. If you're
lucky enough to have an Emulator IV with 128Mb installed you probably
won't be that bothered, but owners of an older 2Mb machines will want
to get as much out of their hardware as they can.
Before editing you
should get into the habit of saving your sample to disk. At the beginning
and every time you make a major change, it saves time and aggravation
later, after you've just deleted the best bass sound this side of Run
DMC and there is no way that you can get it back.
Top and tail
There are three things
you can do to make a sample as small as possible. The first is to lop off
the start and end points. Often there'll be silence at the end, because
you'll have been generous with the sample time to ensure you captured the
whole sound. You may also get silence at the beginning. Or you may be recording
a vocal snatch and just want some of the words.
Most samplers give
you start and end-point markers that you can place anywhere within the
sample. The sample then plays from the start marker and stops at the end.
Even if more of the sample has been recorded, you never hear it.
Some samplers give
you a graphic display of what's going on. This can be really useful: you
can see where the peaks in the sound are, so it's easier to guess where
you need to put the start and end markers. Computers are even easier,
many people do all their editing work on a computer before transferring
the edited sample to a sampler. Other older machines just give you a set
of numbers to deal with. Numbers are harder to work with than graphic
displays, but you'll get a feel for using them after a while.
Once you've topped
and tailed a sound, why keep the extra bits? They're just sitting there
taking up space, making your disk-load times longer than they need to
be, and generally being as useful as a steak-and-kidney pie at a vegetarian
wedding. All but the most basic samplers include a 'trim' feature to remove
the dead wood. Hit the Trim button and the space outside the start and
end markers is deleted and the memory freed.
You can also use
it creatively. If you sample a drum loop, you can use the trim function
to make lots of samples from a single one. You can then string these together
again in the way that you want. Try doing the same thing with words.
Feel the bandwidth
Once you've cleaned up
the start and end points, you can decide whether or not you want to keep
the sound at the current bandwidth. The lower the bandwidth, the less bright
the sound. For some sounds, such as that famous squelchy bass drum, you
can take the bandwidth right down without losing any information.
On some samplers
you can set the bandwidth when you sample, on others you can also set
it afterwards. This is known as 're-sampling'. You tell the machine the
new rate and it converts the sample for you. This can take a while - it's
not an instant change like trimming.
Some samplers have
limited bandwidth ranges. Some Akai machines only go down to 10kHz, for
example.
Loop guru
The next way to save
memory and get more sound for less RAM is to 'loop' the sound. This means
setting up a section so it plays over and over - usually while you hold
a note down. Looping has a reputation for being tricky, but it's not really.
This is where a visual
editing system can really come into its own. It's a lot easier if you
can see the loops, rather than dealing with just a couple of numbers.
Most recent samplers include an 'auto-loop' option that attempts to find
the best loop points, but if all else fails there are a couple of things
you can do to make looping easier.
The first step to
finding a good loop is to guess roughly where you want it to be. To make
the loop as smooth as possible, the start and end sections need to be
roughly the same volume and roughly the same timbre. Volume is easy to
check, especially with a graphic display. Timbre is harder to manage.
Sometimes you have to settle for a bit of a warble in the loop no matter
what you do.
The next step is
to set the loop start and end points, and the loop mode. Some samplers
give you a choice here - you can play the loop forwards, backwards, or
have it cycle in alternate directions (see the diagram above). You can
sometimes also define whether the loop will play only while you hold a
key down, or also when you release it. You may be able to set the loop
duration, so that it plays for a set time or just goes on indefinitely.
Somewhere among all this lot you'll find a couple of non-looped playback
options, too, such as 'play until release' (used for stuttering sampled
effects) and 'play to loop end', which plays the whole sample even if
you only tap a key.
Once you've got the
basics set up, you need to find a good loop. A good loop doesn't go 'click'
or 'thud' at the join and sounds as smooth and seamless as possible. You
need to match the sample at the start of the loop with the sample at the
end. If they're a long way apart you get a nasty click. If you're working
with a single note of an instrument, look for two areas where the sound
is similar and put your loop points at each of them. For example, a flute
sound has similar cycles towards the end of a note, so loop across these
to produce a sample with a steady, realistic sustain.
Traditionally, the
best place to match samples is at 'zero crossings' - where the samples
cross the middle line. If your sampler has a 'find loop' feature this
is one of the things it looks for. Zero crossings are fine, but the important
thing is that you get a smooth curve across the join. It doesn't really
matter how you do this. And even a good zero-crossing loop will sound
wrong if the start and end points aren't roughly in the right place. While
you're creating a loop you need to listen to it to see if it works musically,
and not rely solely on the visual information.
Looping on a non-visual
sampler is a pain. To make up for this, a lot of recent machines have
a loop-finding feature. You set up the start and end points, or start
and duration, and then the sampler tries to work out where the best loop
is. Often this works very well, and it certainly saves you time. Others
have a 'scrub' feature that enables you to shuffle the loop points (like
a DJ moving a record to find a beat) until you're happy.
Sometimes a loop
that works musically just won't settle in and stop clicking. If the effect
isn't too bad, you can try 'crossfading' across the loop join. This does
exactly what you'd expect - it takes some sound from the end of the loop,
fades it in at the start, and vice versa. This can be a quick fix, but
it only works if the loop is roughly right to start with.
One final option
you may come across is loop 'tuning'. Sometimes loops end up sharp or
flat compared to the rest of the sound. With a loop-tuning feature you
can correct this. You can also use it to create special effects.

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